Just been Sewing and Sewing and Sewing

Hello there, it's been a while but I have been busy sewing some epic patterns; ones that take a week or so, then at the end of the day I couldn't be in a sitting position anymore, I just needed to stretch my legs.

I have been making the Dawn Jeans by Megan Nielsen. I chose it because there were good reviews of the fit and sizing accuracy. The finished garment measurements are the measurements I always take when making jeans - I always ignore the 'womens' size numbers because they are too variable from country to country. Who am I making these jeans for? A size 12 woman somewhere in the world or myself. That is how I like to think of it. Dawn is from an Australian Designer.

I LOVE all the details of making jeans. You can't make them in a rush, you have to split the process up into chapters. I chose topstitching, button fly, handstitched sashiko pockets and belt loops - I hate making belt loops but I found some new techniques to conquer my nemesis.

I even treated myself to a leather label once I knew that the jeans were fitting well. If I made them again, and I will, I will do a zip fly rather than a button fly. If you are young with a flat stomach then fine but with a little tum the buttons peel open when you sit down. A zip would remain closed in a straight line I think.

I messed around with the angle of the back yoke to stop the gape I get in shop bought jeans and split the waistband with a join in the back so I could get a better fit. This worked a treat. Did I mention that I filmed the whole process for Minerva as part of my freelance work? It is a surefire way of making you sew something really well.

I could have done with a quick sew break after making, filming and editing a video for these jeans but next up on my list, with a looming deadline, was the Hovea jacket also by Megan Nielsen.

It is an easy fit jacket pattern which I think the marketing team have missed out on with the cover image. Both jackets are quilted on the cover but there are so many other ways to make this jacket lined, unlined, long, casual or cosy. I saw some really different ones on the Minerva website with very different looks. It would be easy to overlook this pattern if you thought it was just for a quilted coat.

Anyway, again I needed to film this process so I chose a tricky fabric to quilt on purpose to share some techniques for makers. Gauze has a bubbly texture which can easily be distorted if you don't use a walking foot to feed the fabric through your machine evenly.

I also made it reversible. This jacket is the easiest construction ever but the process of quilting is time consuming rather than hard. Off the back of my jeans making knowledge, I used felled seams to enclose all of the raw edges on both sides. It worked a treat on the shoulders and sleeve head and I used bias binding to bind along the side seam and under my arm.

These two garments have kept me away from blogging for a few weeks but I did get to see the view from my sewing table every evening reminding me to stand up, stretch and come back to the project the next day with a fresh mind.

Off to check in with you folks now.... Jo xxxxx