In and Out of Love

I have been slowly falling out of love with my fabric cupboard. It has become a pile of off cuts - many are too big to throw in the patchwork box but not enough to immediately think of what to make with them. Mixed within this pile of scraps are some clothing items I thought I could refashion but haven't got around to. 

I have some new pieces of fabric but there is not enough room to put them up neatly. The dross is hogging the shelf. Hmmmm...

The first thing I attacked out of the pile was a vintage handmade sundress given to me by a friend. I tried it on as a dress but it was pretty huge on me. I decided to hack it off into a skirt.

The fabric pattern and quality of the cotton was wonderful which is why I was hanging on to it. I am a sucker for ric rac too.

I normally make pencil skirts or A line skirts but I chose to go with the fabric within the skirt and add some front pleats. 

I added a waistband and an invisible zip. It already had pockets in it (bonus!) so I made sure they would still be functional.

All in all I like the skirt even though it is not my normal style - definitely a hot day skirt. I may turn it up a little bit more as I feel this length looks a little frumpy on me...

It is crying out for a white T-shirt but can you believe it, I haven't got one! I will give it a whirl for a few days while I sew something else from my nearly scraps pile. It is definitely better shorter...

Have you refashioned anything lately?

Jo xxx

Itch to Stitch

Two days before we went away on holiday, I had a suitcase to pack, a wet suit for an 11 year old to find, an interview to prepare for whilst a puppy chewed the wires on the back of the computer and I just couldn't stop thinking about cutting this fabric! What was the matter with me? I even tried to distract my nervous energy by changing my blog layout...

Big Sis and I went on a mercy Sunday morning run to find a wet suit that she could take on holiday. We had exhausted all friends and previous hand me downs. We were hanging around outside the sports shop waiting for it to open so we had a mooch in Laura Ashley. Heidi had never been in there before and she loved it. I saw a box of fabric remnants marked at £10. I picked up a piece of pink embroidered fabric and then put it down. As we left the shop, I saw the same fabric on a roll for £48 per metre. I went back to the box, laid the fabric out on a sofa and folded it into the centre to imagine my easiest skirt pattern pieces(NEWLOOK 6217) all laid out on it. 

We bought said wet suit(and fabric)then went home where I prepared to teach a lesson to 29 Year 1 children whom I had never met before. I stayed focused but by Monday morning I just had to cut the fabric.

The embroidery was too scratchy to wear against my skin. Some thrifted duchess satin lining was sourced from my fabric stash and I made a new skirt. I really had the itch to stitch. I didn't even want to take it on holiday or wear it to the interview, I just wanted to make it. Crazy I know, but it was such an enjoyable way to switch off from the current madness that was my life before we went away that I couldn't help myself. 

 

It is very summery and super slinky on the inside. I had to add a waistband to accommodate the lining then I made a lapped zip which I haven't done in ages but it looked slick to make a good finish.

When I got back from Italy I put on the skirt and realised I had nothing to wear with it other than a white blouse but I knew I had a small piece of oatmeal marl jersey on the bottom of the fabric pile which I bought for £2 as a remnant years ago. Out came the same NEWLOOK pattern and off I went again to make the T-shirt.

I do have a linen jacket which looks good with it too while it is still chilly.

Anyway, I am having a job switch around. I am going to go back to teaching children on a Friday, Family Learning course leader on Thursdays and sewing for my friend's business on a Wednesday. That leaves me with two days to play around with for house building, sheep and housework. I like to call those days voluntary work!

We had a good time in Italy even though we got soaked with rain some days. It was just good to rest and not juggle so many things in my mind for a week. Back to it...

Thanks for dropping in. Jo xx

Machine Star Wrap Skirt

This month my Minerva post was handed over to my own little machine Star. She made the garment and has written a pattern review.

"I enjoyed making this beautiful patterned wrap skirt and even more, I love wearing it." 

Machine Stars wrap skirt pattern review

The tracing paper pattern was easy to cut out and very thick, which made it easy to handle without ripping, however the pattern wasted a lot of paper leaving me to throw it away. 

The instructions were simple to follow and very quick. I would also have loved it much better if the pattern came in more than one size as I had to use darts on the back to keep it up on me. I wasn't to keen on the layout of the pattern pieces on the material as it wasted a lot, instead we used half the material size by using 150cm x 60cm. The thing I liked about this pattern was it's easy to read glossary to help you if you were stuck on a term or needed support that you maybe wouldn't have to hand. 

My mum and me made some changes. Firstly, I found a problem with the hem because it left a raw edge so when I did it, we folded it over  twice making sure it wouldn't fray or come loose. I was wondering how to wear this skirt and where to tie the ribbon so they could have put that on another piece of paper or fitted it on the second sheet. 

I spent around three hours making this skirt spreading it over two days. It was easy to sew as it was mainly straight lines and no weird shaped curves. The fabric given to me was amazing it had a good pattern and great colours and it was also easy to iron. It was not too thick to sew over layers or to be a summer skirt. It was also good because it didn't matter which way up the pattern was. You needed quite a bit of ribbon for the skirt tie(2.50cm)to go right the way around the waist. We used some ribbon that came on mum's new expensive towels.

Soon I shall be making one for my sister in blue and white flowered fabric and red ribbon. Altogether, I loved this pattern and its instructions. This really helped me get even more into sewing and give me more handmade clothes to wear out and about to inspire people to make clothes for themselves. Heidi xxx😃

There you have it. If you have a budding sewer this pattern was really good, she only needed me to be in the room not actually helping her. Heidi is 10 and can use a sewing machine:topstitching; using zig zag stitch; finishing sewing with a forward and back tack and removing pins as she sews.

Thanks Minerva for a confident sewing experience with beautiful resources. 

Mum xxx

Arielle Skirt

This pattern has been around our house for a long time. It required just that little bit more thought for cutting out especially as I wanted a lined version so it always fell to the bottom of the pile. 

The fabric is top quality. It was given to me last year in a donated bag from a colleague's elderly mother but I tell you what, she spent money on this. It is called 'Modern Buchanan' and is the softest of wool tartan. There was enough to make the short Arielle version and have some room for pattern matching. 

I really have come to enjoy pattern matching, it presses the button for my inner sewing geek. The buttons are vintage ones given to me as a gift in a jar and they are perfect for this smart look. If I am honest, I planned the whole skirt around these five buttons!

The skirt has a lot of pieces including all of the facings so lining it makes for extra pieces to cut out and label but the finished result it very fine indeed. Perfect for Sunday Lunch out.

In my opinion...
I am tagging this one as one of my 2018 resolutions. Tilly and the Buttons are one of the best independent pattern houses. The instructions are photographed; clear for beginners but not too onerous for intermediates; no tracing is required; the pattern is on thick paper so it will last a long time; seam allowances are included and the packets are not over complicated. Because of the paper quality, the price feels just right. The modelling imagery has developed in a way that feels much more diverse than it was in the early days - I like this too. 

Impromptu Skirt from New Look K6217

I will model a new make anywhere. Here, the girls and I are sat in the car park at an agricultural merchants while bloke popped in to get chainsaw spares. Cue, impromptu jump out of the car to photograph my new skirt in front of a shed!

I said I would make another one of these easy-peasy skirts from New Look K6217 which uses the smallest piece of fabric. Caroline from CJ made sent me this farbic in a giveaway and it was perfect for a Cath Kidston style rip off skirt.

These are snap shots, there was a man in a van watching us possibly asking himself, "why is that woman posing in front of a shed while her daughter takes pictures of her!"

I used up a pink invisible zip I don't even remember buying too which was a bonus.Side vents make this a comfortable wear and an easy sew. We ran back to the car before bloke came back! 

No more Summer skirts now. We are off to Shrewsbury Folk Festival this weekend, camping and everything, so I will share some colourful details next week. Have a good few days friends.

Jo x

#Vintage pledge outfit - Olive and Orange

I really enjoyed the vintage pledge challenge 2016 and although it is not running with prizes this year, it has become such a part of what I now sew that I will continue to tag my vintage pattern makes for 2017.

I was a finalist in the outerwear category with my 1960's coat in the final prize draw which I was very proud of. Pop over and see the amazing winner here.

I normally make a separate post for each item I make but I made these to go with each other as an outfit. The fabric is from Myfabrics.co.uk The dark olive cord is fine and velvety, a January sale purchase from 2015 and the lightweight cotton is from the same company but from their January sale in 2016. You can see why I am stash busting this year can't you?

 The skirt is a simplicity pattern from 1970; just look at that hat! but I liked the look of the skirt with pleats. It was easy to do and the fine cord pressed well and was not too bulky on the hem. The only modification I made was to shorten it by 3 inches.

I made the top from my favourite vintage pattern:simplicity 7642 because I know it fits. I made View 4 so I can wear it tucked in or out.

I love this orange and olive combination, which I used for my Cleo dungaree skirt too, it goes with my embroidered boots superbly.

I'm still playing Vintage Pledge. I still love collecting patterns and I still love sewing.

Love Jo xx

Self Drafting a Jersey Skirt

 I had some Ponte Roma stretch fabric left over from a tunic dress, it had to go. There was not enough to make a top but I felt sure there was enough to make a stretchy jersey skirt.

The fabric is 20% stretch. To check, I measured 10cm and then stretched the fabric to its limit. The blue pin reached 12cm so it has 20% stretch.

Next I measured my front hip measurement using the side seam of my jeans as a guide. It was 19". I did the same across the back and it was 23". I measured the finished length required then added 1.5" for elastic turnover and 1" for the hem.

Next I cut two pieces using these measurements halved for the width, because I was cutting on the fold. I did not add seam allowances as this will give the negative ease required for a stretch skirt. I kept the waist the same width as the hips because the elastic will draw it in. I did taper the sides in a little towards the hem to give a figure hugging skirt. It looked like this:

As you can see, the bespoke nature of this skirt means if you need more at the front for a bigger tum you could do that or in my case I need more fabric round the back! Either way the side seams will be at my sides.This is a super speedy over locker make but you could do it on a regular machine too. Sew the sides, try it on to make any adjustments then serge or zig zag the top and bottom. 

Next measure a piece of 1" wide elastic around your waist comfortably and add 1/2" for a join. Ensure that when stretched it goes over your hips. (so you can get your skirt on and off)
Join the elastic into a hoop using the 1/2 inch you allowed yourself. 

Mark the elastic in quarters with pins. Line up opposing pins with the side seams and pin in place on the wrong side of the fabric. Now line up the remaining opposing pins with the centre points of the skirt front and back. See picture below:

Now zig zag or overlock your elastic in place by stretching the elastic to fit the fabric. Do not stretch the fabric.

To finish fold over the elastic and use a straight stretch stitch to run a line of stitching through the skirt and elastic fold over. You will need to stretch it a little to allow the waistband to stretch over your hips when you put it on and to avoid puckers. 

This is thick ponte roma jersey so I turned the overlocked edge once and top stitched it in place to avoid a bulky seam.

Hooray! New skirt. This is a great way to practise with Jersey knit fabrics without wasting too much fabric.If it all goes wrong, put it in the bin and try again - you will get better in no time at all. Mine however was worn to work on Monday to invigilate exams - super comfy for sitting down for 2 hours.

Jo xxx

PS. I will put a link to this tutorial on my sidebar which I have updated a little with some previous useful blog posts which were lost in the midst of time.

Christmas Skirt

I have been busting to show you my Christmas Skirt. Now that it is the 1st of December, here it is. 

From a distance it looks like a fun spotty skirt but close up...

...BAUBLES! 

I have a loathing for Christmas Jumpers - the acrylic, the lack of what to wear one with and still look nice, the sweatshop behind them etc. etc. Last year I received a serious barrage of teasing at the 'wear a Christmas jumper to work day' because I don't have one or wish to wear one. So this year I am coming back fighting with a sewing alternative.

A cotton A-line skirt which is lined so that it will always sit well on tights in December. Excuse me, it is a Saturday. I have been sewing, the girls are dancing to the radio and bloke is at the farm hedglaying therefore today is not a day to see my Saturday at home face!

I used vintage Simplicity 7725 view 4 which is still too long for me so I shortened it some more. 

I have already worn it to the school Christmas fayre. It's also earmarked for work drinks, watching the girls school play performances at school, Christmas shopping and of course Christmas day!

What do you think? In my head, I have won!

Jo xxxxx

PS. I have learnt this week that the hard drive on my PC has gone bang and the data can not be retrieved which is so frustrating. I have lost so many pictures of the girls, all my lesson plans and activities for work along with photos for here. So bear with me while the PC is having a new hard drive fitted - I don't have photo editing software on Blokes laptop so things are not the quality I would like them to be. Everything for work is taking twice as long so time is short for blogging. I wrote a lesson plan with a biro today and I haven't done that in 20 years! Back up your stuff folks that is all I am saying.